On the Move Again
Stretching our sea legs after months in port
This past week we weighed anchor and left the Port of Suva on our first passage of this season. The conditions for the trip were light, and we just took our time, giving ourselves and Duende a chance to get back into the rhythm of the sea with 3 overnight stops planned on the way to our destination of Nadi Bay.
While we are always floating, never actually āsitting stillā, it still takes time to readjust to being on the move.
Everything has to be stowed away inside the boat - even in calm conditions the wake from a passing ship can mean that anything not secured can go airborne. We need to tune our senses and get used to scanning in a full 360ā°, keeping watch for other boats, floating objects and obstacles, staying on course, always making sure the systems are functioning as they should. Weāre setting the sails, using the winches, exercising ourselves and the boat. There is a lot going on and we have to be vigilant. We know what everything should sound like, and we notice immediately when something changes ā and when we have to adjust.
Our first day was a short sail in light conditions ā less than 10 knots of wind and about a one and a half meter swell. We were motor sailing but had the full mainsail up for stability ā itās remarkable how the main keeps the boat from rolling in the ocean swell.
We arrived at Vunaniu Bay at around 4:00 pm, so we had lots of time to enter the pass in the reef and get anchored up before dark. It was our first unfamiliar pass entrance for a few months, but visibility was good and even with no channel markers it was easy to navigate our way inside. There was a big surf break on the western entrance, and we passed a few surfers riding the afternoon set. We anchored in 20 feet of water inside the shelter of the bay and settled in for a beautiful evening.
What a difference in 45 miles. We were back in the wilderness.
After a sunset dinner of lamb ragu and gnocchi, we were treated to darkness and silence. We sat on the aft deck and watched the moon traverse the sky, marveling at the Southern Cross and a million other stars. The next morning, we woke up to a beautiful view - no other boats, no port noise, no traffic. Just birdsong from the jungle and a rainbow over the surf break on the reef.
On our second day out of Suva we were underway by 9:00 am and had another short motor sail to Cuvu Beach Cove. The entrance in the reef here was also easy to spot and navigate, but the bottom was hard pan coral and the anchor didnāt set securely. But the conditions were calm and we were confident that our 150-pound anchor would hold us. We put out some extra chain for insurance.
The southeastern side of Cuvu Beach Cove is home to the Shangri-la resort, one of the fanciest properties on the south coast of Viti Levu, with rooms that rent for upwards of $1000 per night. But hidden in the jungle just a few hundred yards away is a local village of tin shacks. Most of the tourists likely donāt even know it exists, but we could see a few dim lights shining through the trees and kids playing on the beach. As usual, we were the view for all the residents, rich and poor.
The resort had the usual assortment of beach toys, and one of the jet ski guides came and hung out beside our boat while his group drove themselves around in circles in the bay. When we told him we were heading for Vanuatu and points west, it seemed like he would have jumped at the chance to leave his jet ski behind and join us. Everyone we meet has pretty much that same reaction.
We got underway early again the next morning and made good time around the southwest corner of the island and headed up the west coast. We entered the big lagoon on the west side through Navula Passage, a deep-water break in the barrier reef. We anchored in Momi Bay in 30 feet of water on a sandy bottom. There is a village at the end of the bay inside a mangrove lagoon, and a guy came by in his boat to say hi ā and to suggest that we might want to pay him to anchor there as his family owns the bay. We told him that we donāt usually pay to anchor but offered him a box of juice. He was happy with that and we parted friends. People here are pretty much like that, they might try ā and why not? But they are happy with anything you offer in kindness.
Day four got off to a slower start, as Seamus and I had an early morning podcast on Time for Life, and then I had a client call. The Captain checked over the engine and the genset to make sure everything was still all good after our first few days out. We got going at mid-day and it was a short 10-mile trip to Nadi Bay.
We are now anchored just off the Vuda Marina and weāll stay here for a few days, top up our fuel and make arrangements for a few things we are having shipped in before we leave Fiji. Then, itās off to check out some of the nearby islands. This area is famous as the setting for the reality show Survivor, and for the island from the movie Castaway. Weāre just excited for some clear blue water and good snorkeling.
One thing that we really appreciate about the west coast is how much drier it is here than in Suva. Weāve left the rain forest behind, and the surrounding hills almost look like Northern California, rolling green with some widely spaced forested areas.
The boat is drying out again and we donāt have to jump around closing hatches and zipping up the pilothouse enclosure every time a rain shower blows past. Which in Suva, was about once an hour.
Last week I wrote about how āmen and ships rot in portā ā and this week weāre shaking out the cobwebs and getting back in our salty groove. Duende is a passage-maker again, and that just feels right. We love being on the move.
Sail on fearless crew! LJ
About Shellphone Chronicles
My weekly essays feature tall tales from the high seas, beautiful photos, original artwork, and occasional poetry. We are a crew of two, enjoying countless adventures on SV Duende, an 80-foot expedition sailing yacht on a multiyear ocean voyage.
To all my constant readers, thank you for coming along on this voyage with us. I love sharing our stories with you.
If you are new to the crew, welcome aboard! Iāve put together a Start Here page on my Substack website ā a roadmap to guide you through some of our most popular essays and provide a few binge-worthy series suggestions. Itās a fun introduction to the themes that we weave through our life on the deep blue sea.
Meet Verde
Verdeās Very Lucky Day - A true story of an iguana and a little girl
is a beautifully illustrated eBook for all ages, children and adults alike. The story came out of a chance encounter with a little drowning iguana who showed me that one small act of kindness can make a big difference.
I saved his life and he changed mine.
Get your copy here with an automatic 15% discount. https://shellphonechronicles.gumroad.com/l/verde
Proceeds from the sale of the book will be donated to charity.
